Emporda-Sète-Bormes
Par pascal gaze le mardi 10 octobre 2017, 10:23 - VOYAGES - Lien permanent
Dans la pénombre du Champagne-Room brillait déjà le satellite érotique de minuit, (...)
Dali
Les moustaches radar
1955-1960
(Journal d'un génie)
25.07
Génius Géniale rit. A Port Lligat, j'imite Salvador Dali en mangeant un espadon-salade. La serveuse, tee-shirt noir " Dani " - nom du resto - cheveux courts, a un délicieux mouvement de langue consécutif à sa non moins exquise prononciation espagnole. Celui qui a écrit la " Déclaration d'indépendance des droits de l'homme à sa propre folie " a, pendant plus de quarante ans, agrandi la cabane où l'on rangeaient les outils de pêche acquise en 1930, à coup de nouvelles acquisitions, d'agrandissements et de nouvelles constructions. Son père était né dans cette crique en 1872. Et celui qui s'est auto-proclamé roi, saint, génie est né à Figueres, en 1904. Le 13 mai, " le vent a cessé de souffler, le ciel est pur ", " le lit des civilisations et les draps propres et théâtraux " étaient prêts pour la naissance du maître de l'autoreprésentation. La labyrinthique maison freudienne coiffée d'oeufs géants, métaphore de la beauté comestible pour l'artiste, et hérissée de fourches tendues vers le ciel méditerranéen, est d'un blanc immaculé. Il donne corps au fonctionnement de la pensée du monarque de ce royaume narcissique et à ses projection fantasmatiques irrationnelles. Écrin de ses visions hypnagogiques et de leur cristallisation. Ni merde, ni sang, ni putréfaction, comme il sied aux musées d'aujourd'hui d'être des modèles de parfaite propreté. De Dalagali en Dagalali, j'essaye d'imaginer le fond de la piscine phallique, remplie d'eau de mer et tapissé d'oursins au milieu des excroissances intra-utérines du mysticisme corpusculaire et polymorphique de l'homme qui a adopté, en les hystérisant en antennes de langouste, les moustaches de Vélasquez. Les photos ensoleillées sont souvent les mises en scène d'un bonheur parfait. Celles de Gala et Dali montrent l'accouplement baveux et dionysiaque sur fond d'Age d'Or à " la rugosité élégiaque " d'une madone idéalisée, modèle de la femme coccyx, et d'un génie en fausses vacances perpétuelles. Mais la tramontane qui fouette le cap de Creus en ciselant la minéralisé dentelée de la côte catalane et semble épargner l'ex-maison de pêcheur dans son abri extra-insulaire souffle pourtant largement dans les esprits. Dali offrira le château de Pubol à Gala où la grande muse froide aux longues mains ira vivre sa mythomane solitaire. C'est en adressant des invitations au bouffon paranoïaque qu'elle autorisera le marquis à rendre visite à la Léda Atomica du surréalisme.
Nous traversons la campagne. Dans le lointain, des bâtiments clos abritent du jambon iberico sur pattes dans une puanteur close qui se répand à la ronde. Sur les routes de Sancho Pança, dos d'âne, " Attention vitesse limitée 30 km/h ", rond-points, lignes droites, radars et ainsi de suite… tant et si bien que tu peux te demander comment c'est dans le Nebraska, le Nevada, l'Arizona, le Wyoming ou l'Oregon. Dans quel lieu imaginaire voyage t-on réellement quand on part sans avoir l'impression de se fourrer un doigt dans le cul comme quand on te demande la date de naissance de tes enfants et que tu hésites sacrément, et qu'hésitant ainsi tout se mélange dans une honte semblable à celle qui consiste à oublier son propre nom ?
Genius Genial fait un boucan de tous les diables comme d'hab'. Murmure de ruche sous mon cerveau en cloche. - Bla bla bla. Ouah ouah… comme l'océan pacifique qui défèque. - Ah ah ! je suis une dame avec un corps sans tête. Je n'ai pas de bras. Je n'ai pas de jambes… La goutte d'eau était accrochée au robinet. Elle ne tombait pas. - Tu peux pas arrêter un peu ? je lui dis. - Non, mais c'est que le générique qui est comme ça ! - elle me répond en jetant sur le papier un sublime dessin.
26.07
Direction Barcelone. La guerre d'Espagne. Dans les champs, pas de troupeaux de moutons, de chèvres ou de vaches accompagnées de bergères et de bergers jouant de la guitare, mais en ville, les touristes sont partout, comme pour une foire aux bestiaux de l'ancien temps. Hollandais, français, japonais, etc Parmi les pèlerins sur le chemin de l'Olympe catalan - le parc Guell, qui devait être à l'origine une cité-jardin, et qui est désormais un véritable parc d'attraction -, une vestale arbore un short ou ce qu'il reste du tissu de cet attribut car il est très largement troué à l'aine, comme mangé par un castor, des deux côtés sur ses cuisses de gazelle qu'elle tient à dévoiler jusqu'au plus haut niveau. D'autres vierges, allemandes sans doute, exhibent des jambes en forme de saucisses, des Francfurt en tongs. Sur les avenues, les autochtones font leur possible, l'air de rien, pour attraper les badauds dans le courant comme on le ferait lors d'une pêche à la truite dans le Montana. Ou bien ils les ignorent, comme on feint d'ignorer les moustiques qui pullulent au bord d'un marais pour mieux les supporter. Je déambule dans le flot comme un autoportrait mou aux lardons frits. Heureusement, sous le funiculaire de Monjuic, des nageuses athlétiques pirouettent seules, cacahouètes au-dessus d'une nuit d'outremer. Sans Kylie Minogue et toute sa bande. Barrio Gràcia, un gars patibulaire nous ouvre la porte de son loft. Son oeil gauche mène une vie indépendante. La chambre dans laquelle on pénètre par une immense salle de bain est fermée par deux colossaux battants en ogive qui occultent à volonté à l'autre bout la lumière et la vue sur la rue. Ce quartier vit en rébellion. Contre à peu près tout. Un mot d'ordre semble s'inscrire partout au milieu des tags contestataires : " FAIRE LA FETE ET VIVRE. " Chacun prépare activement la Festa Major et c'est autre chose que la fête des voisins. Un gigantesque anniversaire pour lequel tout le monde s'active à préparer le décor pour transformer tout le quartier en scène multicolore joyeusement électrique avec des moyens aussi simples que sortis de l'imagination de toute une équipe de scénaristes loufoques qui ont décidé de remplacer le ciel par un feu d'artifice permanent de papier, de plastique, de verres colorés, figeant ainsi explosions et cascades lumineuses. Une formidable brune à la bouche rouge Rolling Stone boit des bières assise sur les escaliers de la Plaça del Sol entourée de quelques congénères. Une centaine d'autres sont posés sur l'esplanade, pareillement prêts à en découdre avec la nuit. L.A. in Cataluňa.
Au comptoir d'un bar de la Barcelonetta, une fille couleur de pêche sous sa peau délicate mange un quart de poulet avec des patatas.
30.07
Pubol. La lumière est à l'identique de celle qui baigne les oeuvres les plus célèbres du maître catalan. C'est un parfait copier-coller de cette atmosphère utopique où galopent des girafes en feu et autres rhinocéros. Les ombres s'étendent en étalant une élasticité sans fin. De captifs nuages du couchant écartent la peur de la mort pour révéler un infini psychologique apaisant les profondeurs d'un inconscient ouvert à toutes les métamorphoses. Quand l'heure présente apaise toutes les contradictions, avant de plonger vers l'universalité des énigmes sans fin, l'étrangeté se cache avec familiarité dans un dynamisme suspendu, pur produit d'un dédoublement qui cristallise toute subjectivité dans la surréalité. La vierge est libre d'avoir de multiples amants dans la quête d'un espace intérieur devenu extérieurement un fantasme fanatique.
2.08
Nous quittons ll'Escala House, grouillante de microscopiques fourmis rouges me dévorant les mollets comme dans une crise de paranoïa-critique qui titille la sauterelle du Grand M.
En campant au milieu des ânes sous une tente en forme de yourte yuppie, nous croisons l'étrange regard d'un cheval borgne.
3.08
À Sète, je mémorise une photo que je n'ai pas faite en pensant au Balcon de Manet : Helga, visage tout en expression sur un long cou, et son mari, rencontrés chez Joachim et Nicole, au premier étage d'un immeuble ancien face au jardin du Château d'eau.
5.08
A Joli Sourire, les filles sont chaudes, aimantes et joyeuses, montrant les arrondis de leurs seins comme des tripoteuses gourmandes en convalescence de connaissances. C'est le petit monde des plages, des tribus d'allégresse et des nageuses nues haletantes. L'éblouï irradie, incendie, étourdit. Une mère descend à la plage avec ses enfants : - Je ne peux pas parler correctement avec vous, vous ne comprenez rien ! " Une vierge extralucide rejoint une orgueilleuse aux seins dodus : - On a de l'huile d'olive bio, de l'huile d'olive de pêcheurs et de l'huile d'olive qu'on a fait nous. " Preuves de vie. Preuves de non-vie. Mythologies métonymiques. Au petit matin, lorsqu'on sort de l'eau, rayonnant de tout le mutisme du solitaire rescapé des naufrages de la vie, on n'a pas envie de planter des coups de hache dans le ciel. Je stocke une nouvelle fois dans le disque dur interne les photos que je n'ai pas faites : une famille sur les rochers avec la mère, le père et l'enfant comme disposés par les plus grands peintres classiques réunis, une femme pulpeuse, rayonnante, allongée sur sa serviette à la manière de Botero, et, pour clore tout cela dans ce même périmètre à 360°, un homme dans une pose de statue sur sa serviette également ; plus tard, une famille sur une longue plage de galets déserte à la pleine lune ; un autre jour, une petite culotte rejetée sur les rochers.
"Chez Jo" est sur Facebook. C'est un petit garage à bateaux transformé en restaurant de poissons grâce à un large ponton jeté sur les eaux turquoises en bout de crique sous la pinède et les cigales du cap. On y sert une bouillabaisse mitonnée au feu de bois, spaghettis à la langouste, poissons grillés de la pêche du jour. A l'origine, il parait que les serveuses étaient nues parce que la crique est historiquement naturiste. Il y a quelques années, j'ai eu la chance de croiser Jo, en jean et chemise kaki, attablé seul avec son journal, en fin de repas sur sa célèbre terrasse, puis titubant dans le sable, aidé par deux jeunes serveurs qui l'encadraient en le prenant sous les bras. Nous avions rencontré aussi ce jour-là un jeune ex-joueur professionnel de poker, au Bellagio de Las Vegas entre autres et sur internet, avec ses deux petites filles blondes qui gazouillaient sur la plage en parlant allemand.
16.08
A Heliopolis, île du levant, on se met à table à poil en mettant des serviettes sous nos culs. Un apollon au bronzage intégral nous décrit la carte avec une verve naturelle admirable. Heureux, la bite à l'air, son compagnon serveur n'a que les lunettes de David Hockney sur le nez. Très beau dans le genre à l'aise dans son âge. J'admire rapidement au passage des plats un appendice, non, pas au milieu du visage mais plus bas. Il est renflé à la base et se termine en queue de cochon quand le mien est d'une simplicité déconcertante en forme de tuyau droit.
J'ai posé du parquet blanc dans notre cabane.
Marco, musicien et gardien de la Reine Jeanne est mort dans l'incendie de la pinède, nous dit la revenue-d''entre-les-morts avec sa peau de bison canadien blanc de 150 ans dans sa boutique de fripes seventies.
19.08
Fabienne Stefanopoulos, nous a sagement attendu dans la plus belle gare du monde, sur le Rhône, là où les trains débarquent les passagers dans les vignes de l'Ermitage et du Cornas. Elle nous fait des crevettes au gingembre à la mode singapourienne, autrement dit à la façon Nagarakertagama. On a bu de la syrah et on a entendu les chouettes discuter au-dessus de nos têtes en nous endormant.
Nous sommes à nouveau posés sous les Cieux Doux du Roi. Génius Géniale joue avec Perlinquinquin. JP a sauvé un faon cerné par les chiens de chasse dans des buissons ardents. Il poussait des cris terribles.
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